Iceland came on my radar as a teenager spending hours with headphones on listening to the melancholy tracks of Sigur Rós. This was just the gateway of Icelandic “pop music” for me. Soon, I had Bjork and múm on repeat as well. This was during the time of MySpace and I filtered Iceland residents and added as many as I could to my MySpace Music account. I even put an Iceland map up on my bedroom wall. Yeah..the infatuation got that creepy.
Fast forward almost 15 years later - I finally got to use that map (yeah yeah, we bought a new one for the trip). For 16 days my girlfriend (@brigs222) and I drove almost 5,000 km around the island. We had a general direction, but we let the way decide what we did each day. If a road looked interesting, we went down it. Camping at night and cooking on a butane burner and a pot, the temperatures often dropped into the single digits (celsius) and the skies were more overcast then sunny - but the immense landscapes made everyday an amazing one.
Here are a collection of photos I shot. Enjoy.
If flying from mainland Europe, you are likely to land in Keflavik in the middle of the damn night. We took this opportunity to check out a few lighthouses along the coast at the darkest hours of the Iceland summer. Days before we left, news was reporting that there was volcanic activity 20km off the coast of Reykjanes. We took the gamble …and nothing happened. I did have the opportunity to return to my home continent by walking across the Álfagjá rift valley to the North American continental tectonic plate.
We didn't go to the Blue Lagoon. ‘nough said.
Write your story here. (Optional)
The south of the island is basically a dumping pot for the Vatnajökull Glacier. This damn glacier is huge. It takes up over 8% of the country’s land and can be seen looming over the mountaintops for hundreds of kilometers. Along the southern coast there are countless glacier tongues emptying into freezing lagoons and dozens of dozens of waterfalls throwing million of gallons of water off cliffs every day.
We heard rumors of an old hot spring pool a ways off the ring road near Skógafoss. After a few wrong turns and a few more km hike through a glacier valley we discovered it, along with a large handful of others. Luckily, we were able to make it back to catch our first every midnight sun from behind the Seljalandsfoss waterfalls. It was breathtaking to say the least.
After a morning of banter based around “Will our car make it?” - “How many rivers do we have to cross?”, we decided to attempt to drive an infamous Iceland highland road to reach a place described to us as “unbelievable”. After a very rough drive and a few “oh shit, I think we dented the car” moments, we reached what I can only describe as a dreamland. The colors and textures were like nothing I have ever seen in my life. The risky drive was well worth it.
Initially we planned to do a multi-day hike here, but Iceland had a bad winter and a majority of the trail we wanted to pass was still under snow. Instead, we opted to hike up the 800 meter Brennisteinsalda. The landscape changed by the meter, from lava fields to dried volcanic vents to sulfur ridden rivers ripping through snow patches - it was a mindfuck to say the least. To top it all off, our exit from this foreign planet was marked with a sky explosion sunset that would make even the toughest of minds question their existence. So, we stopped and made soup.
Apparently, this is one of the main shooting locations for Game of Thrones. I was super excited to check it out, but Mother Nature (or whatever Icelandic sorcery weather mechanism is in play) had other plans. This area is infamous for rain and wind, and she showed her true colors. I have lived through a dozen or so hurricanes. The weather here was about as bad as most of them. Even the local animals were pretty bitter about the conditions.
We decided not to camp here, but instead stayed in a hotel owned by an artist who made abstract felt art. Yup, that’s a thing.
A week before we left for Iceland I saw a guy post a photo on Reddit of this spot. Sitting on the outskirts of the town Kirkjubæjarklaustur (don’t even TRY to pronounce that one!), this 5km long canyon was carved out over thousands of years. It is cut deep and sharp. At times you feel that one wrong step will lead you to your death. Most of the other visitors here took a few photos from the start of the canyon and left. However, the real magic is at the back, where the basin opens wide into a green pasture cut with the same stream that formed the deep canyon we just hiked. I guess this canyon is a lot like a mullet - business in the front, party in the back.
At times while hiking in the Skaftafell Park, I felt like I was in Tuscany or Southern California. The area is under the cover of Iceland’s largest mountain Öræfajökull, giving it a temperate climate. Additionally, the large amounts of birch trees and lack of sheep grazing have made the vegetation in this area standout when juxtaposed to it’s surroundings. However, you are quickly reminded that you are in Iceland when you come across the Skaftafellsjökull one of the largest spurs of the Vatnajökull glacier. Additionally, the tourist hotspot Svartifoss waterfall is quintessential Iceland with it’s monumental basalt column walls.
This is the mother of all spurs of the Vatnajökull glacier. Here the glacier breaks off into icebergs that slowly melt in the lagoon until they reach their ultimate end on the beaches of the Atlantic Ocean.
This is one of the most popular spots in all of Iceland. It can be tourist hell, so we decided to go to it around 11pm. We were completely alone. It was great to sit in silence and listen to the creaks and cracks of the giants sitting atop Iceland’s deepest lagoon. On the contrary, we stopped by 12 hours later and there was a traffic jam just to park.
To be dead honest with you, I had no idea what a Fjord was before I came to Iceland. I mean, I knew how they were made, but I had no idea exactly how big and monstrous they are. Our introduction to the East Fjords started in the warm sun in Höfn, a pleasant fishing village just south of the first Eastern Fjord. We even found a local natural hot bath managed by a entrepreneurial 9 year old. He was the hot bath enforcer and didn’t take shit from anyone. But, he had a soft spot - he would never drink a beer “not even when he is 93 years old” and plans to go to Hollywood to be a rockstar.
We eventually made our way around the first Fjords and were blown away. However, we quickly realized that Fjord hopping was a timely task so we drove over the amazing Öxi Pass, eventually ending up in the small town of Seyðisfjörður. Unfortunately, the weather turned and the Fjords were inundated with clouds ruining the pristine views we were guaranteed a few hours earlier. The East Fjords had a nice vibe and tempo that resonated through the crisp glacial melting ridges that lined the Fjord walls.
In Icelandic the name translates to Mosquito Lake. I have a hard time taking that name serious - I am from South Carolina, our state bird is the Mosquito. But, despite the chilly and overcast conditions, the name proved right, there were a shit load of Mosquitos. The geological environment of the 50km radius of the lake was mind blowing. The Kafla Volcano and it’s amazingly colorful Viti (that’s Icelandic for crater) generate a geothermal landscape that matches something you would expect on Mars. Luckily, the Icelanders are experts at harnessing Earth energy and heating big ass natural pools to sit in and soak up the mineral rich water (and fellow guest’s urine).
Brigitte talked about a “Secret Grotto” for two days straight prior to reaching Myvatn. I was expecting something out of the Playboy Mansion. After a bit of gate jumping and circling around we discovered it, and to my surprise there were no Bunnies. Apparently, locals used to swim in the warm waters of the Grotto up until 10 years ago when the bacteria in the water became an issue.
The north of Iceland is pretty damn big. It covers a lot of area, including Lake Myvatn, Akureyri, and a handful of astonishing Fjords. However one glacial river cuts through it like a razor sharp knife creating the most immense landscapes I have seen my entire life. Fed from the same glacier we walked the spurs of a week before in the South. The Jökulsá á Fjöllum river features three of Iceland’s most immense waterfalls - Selfoss, Dettifoss, and Hafragilsfoss. The son’ bitch is a bad ass river that has been cutting sick landscapes for 10’s of thousands of years.
We had some unfortunate weather, but dramatic weather in Iceland only amplifies the already dramatic landscapes. We eventually made our way down river to Ásbyrgi and pitched tent. This insanely large and wide gorge is said to of been larger than Niagra Falls in it’s prime. As usual, the Icelanders have a Saga for the odd shape of the canyon. Apparently, Odin’s horse stomped its foot down on the ground here - forming a horseshoe shaped canyon.
Being called Iceland’s Second Biggest City is a hard title to live up to…you know…since Iceland is kind of small. However, this town has something special. It reminds me of an outpost of civilization that has been allowed to flourish on it’s own, without global society influencing it. When we arrived, the locals were out enjoying a regional Football match. The most popular gas station chain in Iceland N1 sponsors a team and they had just won. The town featured street art on every corner and was filled with young folks enjoying the nightlife.
While drinking at the local watering hole, I talked to a few teenagers. Apparently, it is a thing to get all your friends together on a Saturday night and repeatedly drive down the mainstreet to “be seen”. Well, I guess they aren't that unlike the rest of us. They have good beer though.
Out first week in Iceland was nearly always overcast, raining, or cold. Once we reached the North Fjords a switch was flipped. The sun came out and the temperatures rose. It was spectacular.
Siglufjörður is rad. It is surrounded by some amazingly high and gorgeous mountains that drop right into the ocean. The town had some very serious avalanches about 10 years ago and as a result they have built some interesting prevention methods. We were fortunate enough to make it over to Hofsós in time for “sunset” at their infinity pool.
Brigitte’s German Iceland travel guide recommended we stop in the town of Hólar to get breakfast at the local agriculture college. I was extremely excited…but we ended up being the only people there and a spread of old bread and budget cheeses.
We were anxious the entire trip to get to the West Fjords. We had heard so many good things about the region and we were stoked to see it for ourselves. It didn't disappoint. The region is filled with tons of gravel roads with steep edges dropping into the ocean. The Fjords are gigantic and it often takes an hour just to drive around one of them. Látrabjarg near the town of Patreksfjörður was my favorite part of Iceland. The area has an amazing red sand beach leading to the largest bird nesting ground in the western hemisphere (FYI: I hate birds). It is pretty easy to sneak up on one of Iceland’s famous Puffins and snag a pic. But, damn - it stunk.
We kept hearing rumors of being able to see whales from the shoreline on the West Fjords. After 3 days of driving and staring into the Fjords - we saw one just 20 meters from the shore. It would rise to the surface every few moments and great us. It was remarkable. Sadly, no photos were taken. Just memories for us and the whale.
While at a campground in the town of Tálknafjörður (in former times it was a hub for whale slaughtering), we found some Icelandic kids enjoying their summer vacation in the midnight sun. It was very interesting to see so many local Icelandic folks travelling and camping in their own country. Nearly half of the people we met at campgrounds around the country were Icelandic.
The Golden Circle is the epicenter of tourism in Iceland. It is a 300km loop going from Reykjavik city to the Southern inland of Iceland. We saved this for near the end of our trip, which might of been a bad idea. By the time we got here, we were already road tested Iceland travelers. We had seen a billion watersfalls, driven hundreds of kilometers off-road, and had often gone hours without seeing other people. We were now surrounded by people who only had enough time in the country to see a 300km loop. I will admit, we were assholes and disgruntled. But, we decided to try and go the opposite of where the crowds were going.
We found a road that no one was driving down and seemed pretty empty. At the end of it was a set of caves that an Icelandic man had built and lived in with his family almost 200 years ago. Now, the sheep use it as shelter when the sun get’s too bright. After a visit to the awfully packed (I actually recommend skipping it if you go to Iceland) Geysir, we came across a pack of horses being herded between pastures. It was a great experience to see these beautiful creatures running at full speed.
Reykjavik and the nearby town of Akranes were our final stop on our trip. After dropping off a hitchhiker in Akranes we decided to hang around the town the rest of the day and climb the Akrafjall mountain. From afar the mountain violently stabbed out of the sky with a ridgeline you would akin to a Lord of The Rings scene. The view from the top gave us our first look at Reykjavik on one side and a ridgeline dropping down to Akranes on the other - spectacular. We decided to make our final camp a good one and grabbed a spot on the Atlantic ocean facing the west towards Greenland. We celebrated with a lamb bbq on the rocks overlooking sunset. It was fuckin’ amazing.
After dropping off our rental car on the outskirts of Reykjavik we decided to hitchhike back into town. Apparently hitchhiking is pretty acceptable in Iceland. Two extremely friendly Icelanders gave us rides back into the city center. The city itself was approachable. One of the standout spots was the Harpa concert hall. The glass structure was built to represent the diversity of the Icelandic landscape. We eventually ended up at a Flea Market filled with locals selling random stuff from whale meat to Billy Ray Cyrus CDs (Iceland loves country music!), to traditional wool sweaters. It was eclectic to say the least.
We hung around town for a night and got super wasted with a bunch of ridiculously friendly locals. One thing that stood out as interesting is how accessible the government buildings were. You could simply walk up to the front door of the Prime Ministers house and knock - if you wanted.
We hung around town until our flight left overlooking our final midnight sun, but this time the sky got a bit darker than our first.
Luckily I had the best travel partner ever. She dealt with all my shit and stopping to take photos and disgruntled freezing rain tent building sessions. Thanks boo.
We are already planning a trip there this winter. I am excited to see the stark contrast between Summer and Winter in the landscape and lifestyle. So…to be continued.
© 2026 John Braynard
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
.jpeg?auto=webp)
/resize(700,400,crop)/1x.jpeg?auto=webp)
/1x.jpeg?auto=webp)
/resize(700,400,crop)/1x.jpeg?auto=webp)
/resize(700,400,crop)/1x.jpeg?auto=webp)
/resize(700,400,crop)/1x.jpeg?auto=webp)
/resize(700,400,crop)/1x.jpeg?auto=webp)